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Overcoming eight obstacles to a clutter-free creative space, part one by Helen Sanderson

We are delighted to have decluttering guru Helen Sanderson on The Daily Stitch today to share the first of a two-part series on how to declutter your creative space to make room for artistic inspiration! Over to you, Helen!

Helen Sanderson

As a creative person, you see things differently to other people. You’ve lots of ideas a great imagination and loads of energy to start things. The downside is you can sometimes be chaotic and not great at completing and finishing projects. The result; you often have a home or work space that is piled high with clutter. Mess is okay in the midst of a creative project, but not as a way of life. The good news is that you’re a resourceful personality type, and so with the right approach you can overcome this.

Overcoming eight obstacles to a clutter-free creative space

Why do people have clutter?
The first step to change is awareness. Clutter isn’t just physical stuff. It accumulates as a result of avoiding making a decision about something or sometimes even burying an unresolved emotional issue. The clutter itself can become a distraction from being present or avoiding starting or completing a challenging personal change or creative project

Making the change
Once you have made the courageous step of recognising you have a problem, the next step is to make a decision to change. However, we all know that change isn’t that easy and even when you’ve done that your unconscious may still try to sabotage you. In conversations with hundreds of people who are struggling with clutter, there are eight common things I hear again and again. In this blog, I’ll reveal what these are and some effective ways to deal with them.

1. “I feel overwhelmed and don’t know where to start”
95% of my clients tell me they’re stuck because they feel overwhelmed. They DO want to sort it, CAN sort it, but just don’t know where to start. To address this, it really helps to have a clear, structured approach. I have six-step easy to follow process and work with illustrated prompt cards to help people make decisions. The inspirational images help engage your inner child with the process. I’ll set out some of the key principles of my six-step method here. For more details, check out my Home Declutter Kit at homedeclutterkit.com and download a sample chapter here.

Overcoming eight obstacles to a clutter-free creative space

2. Lack of motivation
Let’s face it, for most people the idea of sorting out your clutter is not something that fills them with excitement. The process is hard work, and although it can be fun it’s not easy to get motivated when you are looking at piles of stuff. The key is to motivate yourself with clear objectives and goals. Imagine the positive outcomes you want and write them down. Stick this up somewhere clearly visible when you’re decluttering. When you your motivation or energy levels drop, read it again and remind yourself why you’re doing this. Most people find it helps to pledge their goals in our Home Declutter Kit Community group on Facebook and check in there to be accountable.

3. Emotional Challenges
The best way to declutter is to work quickly – making lots of gut decisions: “Do I keep, bin, donate or recycle this?” If you have emotional connections or reactions to certain things, you may struggle to make these decisions. Try not to get caught up in this thinking. Simply put the item in a ‘Don’t know’ pile and move on to the next thing. At the end of the session, come back to the ‘don’t knows’. Hopefully the pile won’t be too big! If it is, I suggest sleeping on it or chatting it over with someone. This is where a friend can come in handy, ideally someone who’s a good listener and happy to talk through any difficulties you’re facing.

A few things may have such a strong emotional charge that you won’t feel ready to look at them: these are your ‘gremlins’. Put these in a box, seal it up and give yourself a time limit. How long do you feel needs to pass before you’ll be ready to face it? Aim for no longer than a year and put a date on the box. Then put it somewhere you can’t easily get to and note the date in your diary when you commit to dealing with it by.

Overcoming eight obstacles to a clutter-free creative space

4. Procrastination and distraction
People often start with the best of intentions then get distracted. This is particularly true when doing something you don’t like, or find challenging and emotionally overwhelming. And let’s not forget the allure of social media, texting or even things like doing the washing up that can become really complelling when faced with a declutter project! Try to be mindful or your decluttering time will be quickly eaten away.

Ask someone to help shift and carry in things for you to decide about. They can also keep you on task and prevent you getting distracted. You can then stay seated and focus on making decisions. Don’t get caught up in putting things away until the end. This is my best tip for you! Practice delaying gratification and reward yourself.

‘Read it’. In the midst of a decluttering session, it’s amazing how a magazine you’ve found can suddenly become really interesting. Maybe you’ve unearthed something that is genuinely of interest, or perhaps you’re looking for a way to avoid carrying on with your declutter. Either way, now is not the time to start reading it. Instead, have a ‘read it later’ pile. Put those articles, recipes and old love letters there and carry on sorting the clutter! At the end of the day, you can enjoy reading them to your heart’s content.

‘Action it’. If you come across something that you need to action, watch out for the urge to get drawn into doing it there and then. Put it into an ‘Action it’ pile. At the end of your session, revisit this and make a list of what you commit to doing. Gather the items into a box so you can get to them easily, or put them in an in-tray. Label it ‘Action’ and create a to-do list, committing to a time and date when you will action it by. No more procrastination!

Overcoming eight obstacles to a clutter-free creative space

I hope you find these tips helpful. I’d love to hear what obstacles you find when trying to get organised. If you need a little more support, visit my website helensanderson.com/declutter and book in for an online mentoring session to get you going.

Check back next week for part two!

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Pun-tastic Valentine’s Cards DIY

We are getting into the Valentine’s crafting spirit hard in our shop, and Laura Howard is helping spread the love with some fab tutorials. Read on to find out how to make these truly wonderful pun-tastic Valentines for someone you love! Thanks, Laura!

Pun-Tastic Valentines DIY

Today I’m sharing templates for making cute and colourful Valentine’s Day cards inspired by silly puns. BEE mine, I’m PINE-ing for you, You make me HOPPY – whichever card (or cards) you choose, I hope you’ll have fun making these!

Pun-Tastic Valentines Cards

All these cards were made using the fab Super Colour 60 paper pad, which includes loads of great shades for all your paper crafting projects. Each pad includes a mix of light and heavy weight paper/card – I used the thick sheets for the cards themselves then cut out the shapes making up each design from the lighter weight paper. The lighter weight paper is also great for making coordinating envelopes.

You could also decorate a pack of blank cards and matching envelopes, or cut all the shapes from white paper and use colouring pencils, pens or even paints to add colour.

Tools and Materials:
The printable PDF template sheets.
Coloured paper and card – I used the Super Colour 60 paper pad.
Scissors
A sharp pencil and an eraser
A fine black pen
A ruler
Felt tip pens or markers
A glue stick
Optional: scrap paper to protect your workspace.

To make each card:
1. Cut your chosen A4 card sheet in half then fold it in half to make a blank card to decorate. An easy way to do this is to fold a plain piece of A4 paper in half and use that as a guide to help you quickly draw a pencil line down the centre of the card. Carefully cut along the line then fold the card in half.

2. Use the templates provided and the instructions below to cut out all the pieces of coloured paper required to make up your chosen design. To cut out each shape, turn the template over and place it on the paper you’ve chosen. Use a sharp pencil to carefully trace around the paper template then cut out the shape and turn it over, leaving you with a finished shape with no visible pencil lines.

3. Arrange the pieces on the card and glue them in position using a glue stick. When gluing paper pieces, I like to turn the shapes over and place them face down on a piece of scrap paper – this way you can apply the glue right up to the edges of the shapes without worrying about getting glue on the table.

4. Use a fine black pen (or felt tips, as required) to add any necessary details to the design.

5. Finish the card by adding the pun-tastic message. For extra neatness, write the message in pencil first to plan the position and spacing of your words then write over the top in pen and erase the pencil once the ink has completely dried.

Pun-tastic Valentine's Cards A

You’re the apple of my eye.
Cut one red apple, one brown apple stalk, and one green apple leaf. Glue the apple then the stalk and leaf then use a fine black pen to draw a line down the centre of the leaf.

I’m pine-ing for you.
Cut one dark green pine tree and one brown tree trunk. Glue the pieces to the card.

You’re just my cup of tea.
Cut one pink or red heart and one cup in a contrasting colour (I chose bright blue). To cut out the hole inside the handle of the cup, cut through the shape at the top or bottom where the handle joins the bowl of the cup. Glue the cup then add the heart. If you want you can also use a fine black pen to draw wavy steam lines rising from the cup, or to add extra decorative details to the cup.

You’re purrrrrfect.
Cut one cat in a colour of your choice (I chose orange), two bright pink cat eyes, two pale pink cat ears (one left and one right) and one pale pink cat nose. I gave my cat heart eyes to be like the cat emoji, but if you prefer you can cut normal eyes for your cat. Glue the cat face to the card then add the small pieces. Use a fine black pen to give the cat whiskers and a smile (and, if needed, pupils for the eyes).

Bee mine.
Cut one yellow bee, one white bee wings, one flower (I chose lilac for this), one contrasting flower centre (I chose a bright orange), one pink flower heart, and two green leaves (one left and one right). Add a small bit of glue to the bottom of the wings, and stick them to the back of the bee, so the curved wings stick out as shown. Glue the flower then add the bee, flower centre, heart and leaves. If you find cutting out the small heart piece tricky, you can draw a heart with a pink pen instead! Use a green felt tip pen to draw the flower stalk, and a fine black pen to add stripes, a stinger and a smiley face to the bee.

You make me hoppy.
Cut one grey bunny, two pale pink bunny ears (one left and one right), two white bunny eyes, and one pink bunny nose. Glue the bunny face then add the small shapes. Use a fine black pen to give the bunny a smile, small whiskers, and big teeth, and to add pupils to the eyes.

Pun-tastic Valentine's Cards C

I’d be lost without you.
Cut one compass outer circle from a dark colour (I chose dark brown), one compass inner circle from a pale colour (I chose pale blue), and one compass points piece from a bold colour (I chose blue). Glue the outer circle to the card then add the inner circle so it’s centred on the larger shape. Then add the compass points in the middle and use a pen to draw four lines and the North, East, South, West markers.

I love you sew much.
Cut one bright thread piece (I chose bright pink), two bright buttons (I chose turquoise and lilac) and the top and bottom of the spool in white, cream or pale brown. Glue the thread and buttons, position the top and bottom spool pieces so they slightly overlap the thread, and then glue the spool pieces in place. Use a fine black pen to add detail to the top of the spool and the buttons, and to draw a sewing needle. Then use a felt tip pen matching your chosen thread colour to draw a curving line of thread running from the thread shape and through the eye of the needle.

I’m sweet on you.
Cut three sweets in assorted bright colours (I chose purple, orange and pink). Glue them to the card and use a fine black pen to draw a wrapper around each sweet.

Pun-tastic Valentine's cards D

I think you’re egg-cellent
Cut one white egg white, and one yellow egg yolk. Glue the egg white, add the egg yolk and use a fine black pen to give the yolk a smiley face.

I only have eyes for you
Cut one alien in a bright colour (I chose lime green) and lots of white eyes. Glue the alien to the card, then arrange the eyes and stick them in place. Use a fine black pen to give the alien a smile and to add a pupil to each eye.

You’re a-maze-ing.
Cut one maze from your chosen colour (I used pink). Glue it to the card then use a ruler to mark out the maze lines, using the template or the photo as a guide. You can draw the lines directly with a fine black pen, or draw them in pencil first then draw over them with pen when you’re happy with the design. Don’t forget to draw the lines around the outside of the maze, leaving a gap or to for the maze entrance(s)! Then cut a bright pink heart and stick it in the middle of the maze, or use a pink felt tip pen to draw a heart instead.

If you follow this tutorial to make any Valentines, please share them on Instagram and tag #thevillagehaberdashery so we can see your awesome work!

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How to knit a gauge swatch (and why you should!)

We’re excited to have Allison and Rachel from Yarn in the City writing some yarn-focused blog posts for us to help inspire you with your knitting and crochet projects. This edition is all about swatching, what is is and why it is a good thing to do. Take it away ladies…

how to knit a gauge swatch

Do I really have to swatch?

Who among us hasn’t asked this question at one time or another? You’re in the grips of the excitement of starting a new project, and you just want to get going! But then come those dreaded phrases – “adjust needle size as needed to get gauge”, “please swatch to ensure adequate yarn,” “swatch to avoid disappointment.” Argh!

Even though we are firmly in the camp of Swatching Is Good, we still get frustrated by having to pause in my casting on frenzy to knit a square, block it, wait for it to dry, measure it, and repeat ad infinitum until I get the correct gauge. But it is true that swatching is important, and there is a right way to swatch. There are also a number of factors that play a big role in whether or not your swatch tells the truth.

Why Swatching is a Good Thing by Allison and Rachel from Yarn in the City!

Why swatching is important:

You certainly don’t have to swatch – there are no swatching police! But if you want your project to end up the correct size and match the schematic measurements, swatching is a critical part of the process. Don’t do what Rachel did and spend several months in uni knitting an entire cabled sweater without swatching only to discover that the finished object fit her with 40 cm of ease! Particularly if you are starting a project for which fit is essential (jumpers or socks), swatching can save you hours of wasted time, additional expense and considerable heartbreak!

Why Swatching is a Good Thing by Allison and Rachel from Yarn in the City!

How to swatch correctly:

There’s no gold standard for how to swatch, but there are some general guidelines. Be sure you make your swatch big enough! The minimum size for a swatch is about 10 x 10 cm, but I’d definitely recommend making one bigger then that if you can stand it.
Work a garter stitch border around your swatch so it will lie flat when it’s finished. For all the swatches pictured below I cast on 26 sts and worked the first and last three stitches of each row in garter stitch, with 6 rows of garter stitch to start and finish.

If your project is knit in the round, you should swatch in the round. You don’t actually have to work a tube – use circular or double pointed needles, cast on and work one row. Slide the work to the other end of the needle and work the next row, leaving a long float across the back of the swatch so there’s plenty of room for it to lay flat when you’re done. Keep going until the swatch is the size you want, bind off, and block. You can cut the floats if you like, but just be sure to fasten them off so that the stitches are even along the edges.

Also make sure to treat your swatch as you are going to treat your finished project. Block the swatch in the same way as the final project, and let it dry before measuring the gauge.

To measure the gauge lay the swatch flat without stretching or pulling. Take a ruler or a measuring tape and lay it across the portion of your swatch between the garter edges. Measure this section and then divide it by the number of sts in the swatch (not counting the edges). Do the same for the row measurement. Then you can extrapolate to sts/rows per inch/cm.
Why Swatching is a Good Thing by Allison and Rachel from Yarn in the City!

A word about interpreting measurements: swatches with looser gauge will have fewer stitches or rows per unit measure. Swatches with tighter gauges will have more stitches or rows per unit measure.

OK, let’s take a look at some factors that will affect your gauge and how those factors can be used to your advantage.

Stitch pattern:

This may seem completely obvious, but the stitch pattern that you use for your swatch will affect your gauge dramatically. Case in point: the three swatches below were all knit on the same needles with the same number of stitches cast on and the same number of rows. They were all blocked the same way.

Why Swatching is a Good Thing by Allison and Rachel from Yarn in the City!

You can see that the cables pull the fabric in dramatically, while lace patterns open the fabric up and give fewer stitches per cm.

Tools:

The type of needles you use couldimpact your gauge. The four swatches below were all knit with 5.0 mm needles of different materials. One swatch was knit on metal needles, one was knit on plastic needles, and two were knitwith wooden needles – one set smooth and polished, the other set rough. All swatches were worked over the same number of stitches for the same number of rows, and were blocked the same way.

Why Swatching is a Good Thing by Allison and Rachel from Yarn in the City!

Here’s how the gauge came out: Metal needles: 16 sts/22 rows per 10 cm; plastic needles 22 sts/23 rows per 10 cm, smooth wooden needles: 18 sts/25 rows per 10 cm; rough wooden needles: 16 sts/ 24 rows per 10 cm.
The plastic needles gave the tightest stitch gauge, while the metal and rough wooden needles gave the loosest stitch gauge. Metal and plastic needles gave similar row gauges, while wooden needles had looser row gauges. Generally speaking, smoother needles will give tighter gauges, while rougher needles will hold on to the yarn and give a looser fabric at the same needle size.
The take home message from this experiment is that if you are swatching and having trouble getting correct gauge, but changing needle size is too much of a difference, try a different type of needle.

Yarn choice:

The yarn you choose for your project plays an integral role in how successful you’ll be. The first thing to consider is the yarn weight – all knitting patterns should indicate the weight of the yarn used. Sometimes that will be explicit and sometimes you need to do a bit of digging, particularly if you are going substitut a different yarn. If the weight isn’t given in the pattern, look up the yarn called for on Ravelry, which will tell you the yarn weight.

Another clue is the gauge: if there are more stitches listed in the gauge over 4 inches/10 cm, the yarn is finer. For example, a project worked at a gauge of 32 sts over 4 inches/10 cm (a 4-ply gauge) uses a finer yarn than a project worked at 12 sts over 4 inches/10 cm (super chunky gauge).

On other thing to keep in mind: the terms used to indicate yarn weights vary regionally, and the name for a particular weight of yarn in one part of the world may refer to a completely different weight of yarn somewhere else! To help you navigate this tricky area, we’ve included a table comparing US, UK and Australian names for different weights of yarn, along with the approximate stitch gauges for each weight.

US UK Australia Gauge over 4 inches/10 cm
Laceweight 1 ply
2 ply 2 ply 32-40 sts on 1.5 – 2.25 mm needles
Fingering 4 ply 3 ply 27 -32 sts on 2.25 – 3.25 mm needles
Sport – 5 ply 24-27 sts on 3.25 – 3.75 mm needles
DK/Light worsted DK 8 ply 21-24 sts on 3.75 – 4mm needles
Worsted Aran 10 ply 16-20 sts on 4.5-5.5 mm
Bulky Chunky 12 ply 12-16 sts on 5.5 -8 mm needles
Super Bulky Super Chunky 14 ply Anything less than 12 sts per 4 inches/10 cm

Finally, your fibre choice can affect your project, particularly if you are substituting yarns. A general rule of thumb is to try and match the fibre content (I.e. wool for wool, cotton for cotton) and the meterage.

Be aware that some fibres change more after blocking than others, particularly superwash wools, which can grow dramatically after they get wet, leading to much looser gauges than you want or need! The swatches below were all knit out of the same superwash wool, but were blocked differently: the left swatch wasn’t left unblocked, the middle swatch was wet blocked and air dried and the right swatch was wet blocked and tumble dried. Air drying resulted in a larger swatch than the unblocked version, while tumble drying produced a smaller swatch.

Why Swatching is a Good Thing by Allison and Rachel from Yarn in the City!

Hopefully these tips are enough to get you started on your swatching adventures. Happy knitting!

Thanks Ladies!

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A Year of Wreaths: December Embroidered Snowflakes Wreath by Laura Howard

It’s time for the December wreath (so sorry this one is a little late) in our Year of Wreaths series with Laura Howard! Read on for her embroidered snowflakes wreath tutorial and pick up a kit here! Take it away, Laura!

Embroidered Snowflakes Wreath Tutorial by Laura Howard

The final wreath in this seasonal series is a little bit late (sorry!) but hopefully worth the wait. You could make it as a winter wreath to add a bit of sparkle to these dark and gloomy days, or stitch it ready for next Christmas!

This month’s wreath features embroidered snowflakes, silver sequins and seed beads, and some fabulous metallic thread. As well as making the full wreath, you could also use the snowflake embroidery patterns to sew felt snowflake ornaments, stitch a snowflake in a small embroidery hoop or sew snowflakes onto anything you fancy!

You will need:
*The pattern sheet provided (click here to download and print the PDF)
*A 30cm polystyrene ring wreath base
*Dark blue yarn to wrap the wreath (I used 2 balls of Rico Essentials Soft Merino Aran in Navy)
*Navy blue wool blend felt
*White stranded embroidery thread
*Gutermann Metallic Effect Thread (shade 41)
*Assorted silver sequins and beads
*Sewing thread (any colour)
*Tissue paper
*A biro or other fine point pen
*Sewing scissors
*A sewing needle and pins
*A glue gun and glue
*A heat-proof mat for the glue gun
*Newspaper to protect your workspace from any glue drips

To make the wreath:
1. Start by embroidering the snowflakes: one of each design included on the pattern sheet. Trace the snowflake patterns onto tissue paper with a biro or other fine pen then cut them out as shown.

A Year of Wreaths: December Embroidered Snowflakes Wreath by Laura Howard

2. Tack each paper pattern to a piece of dark blue felt, using sewing thread and a few large stitches. Keep your stitches clear of the pattern so they’ll be easy to remove later.

A Year of Wreaths: December Embroidered Snowflakes Wreath by Laura Howard

3. Stitch the snowflakes with white stranded embroidery thread, using backstitch and three of the six strands. When stitching, take care not to trail threads near the edges of the pattern and across gaps where you’ll be cutting later.

A Year of Wreaths: December Embroidered Snowflakes Wreath by Laura Howard

4. Remove the tacking threads and carefully tear away the tissue paper to reveal the stitched designs. Use a pin to remove the smaller pieces of paper from the stitches – this is a bit fiddly, so take your time.

A Year of Wreaths: December Embroidered Snowflakes Wreath by Laura Howard

A Year of Wreaths: December Embroidered Snowflakes Wreath by Laura Howard

5. Wrap the wreath base with dark blue yarn. I used two balls of Rico Essentials Soft Merino Aran in Navy.

Secure the yarn with a knot at what will become the back of your wreath. Begin wrapping the yarn around the wreath base, passing the ball of yarn through the hole in the centre of the wreath as you wrap the yarn around the outside. Hide the loose yarn end under the yarn as you wrap, and make sure that you’re not leaving any gaps where the white wreath base shows through. Continue wrapping, gradually covering the whole of the wreath base, and switch to the second ball when needed. Wrapping the wreath takes a while, so I highly recommend wrapping your wreath while watching a film or some episodes of your favourite TV show.

A Year of Wreaths: December Embroidered Snowflakes Wreath by Laura Howard

Once the whole wreath base has been covered with yarn, tie a knot securely at the back and carefully trim the loose end so it won’t be visible when the wreath is hung up.

A Year of Wreaths: December Embroidered Snowflakes Wreath by Laura Howard

6. Now it’s time to add some sparkle! Tie the loose end of the metallic thread to the wreath base, knotting it securely at the back. Then wrap the thread around the wreath, creating a pattern of silver lines on the dark background. I worked my way around the wreath twice, adding a second set of lines between the ones shown in the first picture but you can add all the lines in one go if you prefer. When you’ve finished adding silver thread, tie a knot securely at the back and trim any loose ends of thread.

A Year of Wreaths: December Embroidered Snowflakes Wreath by Laura Howard

A Year of Wreaths: December Embroidered Snowflakes Wreath by Laura Howard

7. Cut out the embroidered snowflakes.

A Year of Wreaths: December Embroidered Snowflakes Wreath by Laura Howard

8. Arrange the snowflakes on the wreath base, as shown, and pin them in position.

A Year of Wreaths: December Embroidered Snowflakes Wreath by Laura Howard

9. Cut a long piece of the metallic thread. Tie one end of the thread to the wreath base close to one of the outermost snowflakes, knotting it securely at the back.

Thread a sewing needle with the loose end then gradually wrap this thread around the wreath, filling in the gaps between the lines of thread already in place and adding beads and sequins to the thread as you work. I added 1-3 embellishments per line, covering the front of the wreath with an even but random-looking spread of beads and sequins.

When the thread is running out use the sewing needle to sew into the yarn at the back of the wreath a few times to secure the thread, then knot it securely and trim any excess.

Repeat this process to gradually cover the wreath base with sparkles.

A Year of Wreaths: December Embroidered Snowflakes Wreath by Laura Howard

A Year of Wreaths: December Embroidered Snowflakes Wreath by Laura Howard

Once you reach the snowflakes again, wrap the thread underneath the snowflakes and add just a few beads and sequins in the gaps between them.

A Year of Wreaths: December Embroidered Snowflakes Wreath by Laura Howard

10. One by one, glue the snowflakes to the wreath. Begin by moving the pin to one half of the snowflake, lift the other half of the snowflake up then apply glue underneath it. I added glue to the snowflake itself but you could add the glue to the wreath base instead. Carefully press that section of the snowflake in position on the wreath, remove the pin then glue the other half.
I glued my snowflakes so they curve slightly around the shape of the wreath base. For a different look, just add one dab of glue to the centre of each snowflake so the edges remain unattached.

IMPORTANT: take care when working with the glue gun as the glue gets very hot! Always place it on a heat-proof mat when not in use, and use newspaper or other scrap paper to protect your workspace. Work slowly, squeezing the gun with care to control the amount of glue you’re using and keeping your fingers out of the way of the hot glue.

A Year of Wreaths: December Embroidered Snowflakes Wreath by Laura Howard

Embroidered Snowflakes Wreath Tutorial by Laura HowardHang the finished wreath directly from a hook or a nail, or hang it using a leftover piece of the dark blue yarn.

Thanks Laura!

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A close up on our Christmas Morning vignette!

It’s Christmas!!!

Kym here and I am so excited to share the details of our third Christmas display this year! We have gone all traditional with red, green, gold and blue colours. Our two children are dressed in their Christmas pyjamas on Christmas Morning with their stockings by the Christmas tree.

Christmas Morning Vignette

Our littlest is wearing her ‘Knitted by Nana’ Christmas Jumper! Nana has stitched it up in Rico Essentials Merino DK yarn in Red and natural. Isn’t it adorable!

Christmas Morning vignette

The pattern is a vintage find from etsy.com (you can find it here). I just love the snowflake detail! (A big big thanks to my Nana London for this!)

Christmas Morning vignette

Our little one is wearing her Christmas Jumper over her Oliver + S Sleepover Pajamas in Santa Express – Main in White by Doodlebug Design (Riley Blake).

Christmas Morning vignette

Our little girl’s big brother is also wearing his Oliver + S Sleepover Pajamas!

Christmas Morning vignette

Fabric here is Nutcracker Christmas – Nutcracker Minis in Green by Riley Blake Designers. So sweet!

Christmas Morning vignette

We chose to add a contrast lapel, cuff and pocket facing with a little Kona Cotton Solids – Lipstick. I had great fun with the pattern matching on the pocket!

Christmas Morning vignette

Instead of buttons we have gone for Kam Snaps. These are super easy to attach and nice and easy for kids to use too.

Christmas Morning vignette

Their stockings made by @needlesandlemons are all ready for Father Christmas!

Christmas Morning vignette

Our lovely friend Sara has made us this totally amazing tree skirt!

Christmas Morning vignette

It is so clever how it looks like presents under the tree! Fabrics are from the Nutcracker Act 1 collection by Sarah Jane for Michael Miller mixed with Kona Cotton Solid – Basil and some sparkly Essex Yarn Dyed Metallic.

Christmas Morning vignette

Sara’s detail in gold embroidery thread is stunning!

Christmas Morning vignette

On the back is Mini Candy Cane Stripe in Red from the Studio Christmas collection by Michael Miller for an extra festive finish.

Our lovely tree was kindly donated to us by Pines and Needles and we totally love how Christmasy it makes the shop look! We have a lovely selection of hand made decorations hanging on its branches including these exquisite ones by Laura Howard. You can find a tutorial for these ones here!

We have also used Laura Howard’s pinwheel tutorial as inspiration for our wool felt tree topper with the addition of some felt balls… such fun!

No tree would be complete without some presents! We have wrapped ours in our Classical Christmas wrapping paper. Find all of our gift wrap supplies here and check out our blog post by Gift Wrap Guru Jane Means here for more inspiration and ideas!

We hope you have enjoyed reading all about our Christmas Morning vignette as much as we enjoyed creating it!

Merry Christmas Everyone!

 

 

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