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How to fill an Easter basket

Easter is not a religious holiday for me, but growing up (in Seattle) it was a HUGE family holiday packed with traditions because my mom came from a big family. I’ve tried to share some of those traditions with my own family, but it hasn’t always been easy. My first year here I wanted to do an Easter basket for my stepdaughter, and I couldn’t find the right kind of basket ANYWHERE. My mom always had to send me Easter egg dye. And there aren’t any massive Easter egg hunts (that I could find) around here that are anything like what my family did every year. Guys. I still can’t find Peeps in this country.

This year, I’m actually going to come pretty close to carrying on a lot of those traditions and I’m super excited to share them with you! The first thing I thought I’d show you is how to fill an Easter basket. When we woke up on Easter, we’d get to search the house for the Easter basket my mom had hidden for each of us. I’ve pulled a few supplies together in the shop to help you make Easter baskets for your kids/partners/friends with a fun, sparkly spin. Here’s how it goes down!

How to fill an Easter basket

1. Get a basket. A long handle is essential for a classic Easter basket. The handles on ours fold down which will help with storage later. Your kid’s first Easter basket can last them their whole life!

How to fill an Easter basket

2. Fill it with Easter grass. In the shop, we have fun metallic plastic ‘grass’ in four colours. I used the turquoise here.

How to fill an Easter basket

3. Take a few plastic eggs and fill them with treats. They don’t all have to be sweets – little toys, paper punches, washi tape, etc. work well too. We have gold eggs in the shop because I’d never seen them before and they are so cool!

How to fill an Easter basket

How to fill an Easter basket

How to fill an Easter basket

4. Add chocolate eggs, a chocolate bunny (if you’re in America) or a giant chocolate egg (if you’re here). Basically, add chocolate.

How to fill an Easter basket

How to fill an Easter basket

5. Toss in some fluffy chicks. Optional, but so cute!

How to fill an Easter basket

6. Add a couple of small, non-sweet gifts. Ideally something to help entertain over the rest of the long weekend/school holiday. Here we added stickers and a mini cross stitch kit. My mom often put a paperback book in mine.

How to fill an Easter basket

7. Now hide the basket and make your loved one find it, playing the ‘you’re getting warmer…you’re getting colder…you’re getting warmer…you’re HOT!’ game. Revel in how cute and creative you are. Eat chocolate. Done!

You can find all of the supplies we used here (except the chocolates) in our Easter crafts section!

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Overcoming eight obstacles to a clutter-free creative space, part two by Helen Sanderson

Decluttering guru Helen Sanderson is back on The Daily Stitch today to share the second of her two-part series on how to declutter your creative space to make room for artistic inspiration! Over to you, Helen!

Overcoming eight obstacles to a clutter-free creative space

Welcome back to part two of my blog. In part one I shared some expert tips for dealing with four common barriers that can stop people creating a supportive and inspiring space that will help them fulfil their creative potential. These barriers are: feeling overwhelmed and unsure where to start; distraction and procrastination; lack of motivation; and emotional challenges. Read on for some solutions to four more obstacles that people frequently come to me for help with.

Overcoming eight obstacles to a clutter-free creative space

5. Start with a clear goal and timescale in mind

Once creative people get going on a declutter project, one of the biggest obstacles is simply not finishing the job. After all, there are usually plenty of far more interesting projects on your mind. Hence the importance of a clear plan and deadline.

A bit like setting off on a journey without a map, having no idea where you’re going or when you need to get there will lead to problems. Of course, there’s a time and a place for following your personal flow, but there’s very little chance it’ll move you to declutter your studio! So, set clear goals and time limits and things won’t drag on and assume a life of their own – rather like that pile of clutter that’s become such a formidable presence.

A word of warning: you may want to clear a mountain in a short period of time, but beware of underestimating how time-consuming the job will be. This can lead to fatigue and depression, set you up for failure and feed your inner procrastinator – all of which are damaging to your self esteem. So, pace yourself.

Overcoming eight obstacles to a clutter-free creative space

6. Ditch the all or nothing thinking

Decluttering is about mindfully reconnecting to what you have, not just throwing things away. Try to let go of the belief that you have to let go of everything. This can be a stumbling block that prevents you from starting a declutter project or seeking the help you need from a friend or a coach like me. On the other hand, trying to keep everything can also be a way of defeating your own objectives. Try to be realistic about the need for change.

Think of decluttering your creative space as like weeding your garden. It’s about distinguishing the weeds from the good plants that flower and give you inspiration. Every flower needs space and light and doesn’t thrive in a crowded bed.

Overcoming eight obstacles to a clutter-free creative space

Remember, there are many ways to keep things and many routes out of the house or studio, not just the bin. Find ways of letting things go that brings good to yourself or others, such as donating, creating a memory box for loved ones, or putting things up for sale on eBay. Be realistic about how much effort it will take to sell things though, and decide if what you’ll make is worth the time and energy. Plus, if you’re selling or acting on something, remember to set a time limit for doing it. That way it won’t become another source of procrastination.

7. Avoid getting caught up in the details

As a creative person who is drawn to beauty, you probably love creating order and harmony. So, you may find that categorising and sub-categorising your things is the best bit. But don’t do this until you have finished weeding!

Ready, steady, sort! The essence of my process is pretty simple. Take a pile of items from your work area or clear a storage cabinet into a box and set it down in front of you. Then start allocating each of the items to piles. These will be something such as, Keep it, Bin it, Donate it, Recycle, Action it and so on. It’s not rocket science, but how you do this bit is important. You’re going to want to get up and put things away and start to sub-categorise … don’t! Remember this stage is just about weeding. Trust your first instinct or gut feeling when deciding, working swiftly through your things.

As you are about to make lots of decisions as quickly as possible, this is a good time to tell you about one of my top tips: the ‘Don’t know’ pile. It’s not always going to be easy to decide about some things, they will have an emotional pull or need some thinking time. If this happens, simply put the item in a ‘Don’t know’ pile and get back to the weeding process¬. When you’ve cleared everything, come back to your ‘Don’t know’ pile with a fresh mind. Beware though, if the pile gets too big it might be time to go back and remind yourself of your intentions.

Overcoming eight obstacles to a clutter-free creative space

8. Find ways to honour your memories without drifting into sentimentality

Once they start unearthing things associated with people and places they haven’t seen for a while, many creatives find themselves feeling sentimental and wanting to hold onto everything. Even though they’ll probably never look at those things again until the next time they have a clear out! See this video to understand a bit more about our attachment to things.
The ‘honouring memories’ cards in my Home Declutter Kit help you deal with items of sentimental value, as these are some of the hardest things to manage. The cards give you some creative and practical ideas on how to retain those special memories in a way that lets you honour what they mean to you, but still get on with your life. This way you can have a creative area with more space that holds your memories without them taking over.

I hope you find these tips helpful. For more tips: watch some short videos here on avoiding 7 common decluttering mistakes.

I’d love to hear what obstacles you find when trying to get organised, and what hidden treasures you’ve uncovered, so please comment and share.

If you need a little more support, visit my website and book in for an online mentoring session to get you going.

PS Look out for my up and coming workshops. Register your interest here.

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Overcoming eight obstacles to a clutter-free creative space, part one by Helen Sanderson

We are delighted to have decluttering guru Helen Sanderson on The Daily Stitch today to share the first of a two-part series on how to declutter your creative space to make room for artistic inspiration! Over to you, Helen!

Helen Sanderson

As a creative person, you see things differently to other people. You’ve lots of ideas a great imagination and loads of energy to start things. The downside is you can sometimes be chaotic and not great at completing and finishing projects. The result; you often have a home or work space that is piled high with clutter. Mess is okay in the midst of a creative project, but not as a way of life. The good news is that you’re a resourceful personality type, and so with the right approach you can overcome this.

Overcoming eight obstacles to a clutter-free creative space

Why do people have clutter?
The first step to change is awareness. Clutter isn’t just physical stuff. It accumulates as a result of avoiding making a decision about something or sometimes even burying an unresolved emotional issue. The clutter itself can become a distraction from being present or avoiding starting or completing a challenging personal change or creative project

Making the change
Once you have made the courageous step of recognising you have a problem, the next step is to make a decision to change. However, we all know that change isn’t that easy and even when you’ve done that your unconscious may still try to sabotage you. In conversations with hundreds of people who are struggling with clutter, there are eight common things I hear again and again. In this blog, I’ll reveal what these are and some effective ways to deal with them.

1. “I feel overwhelmed and don’t know where to start”
95% of my clients tell me they’re stuck because they feel overwhelmed. They DO want to sort it, CAN sort it, but just don’t know where to start. To address this, it really helps to have a clear, structured approach. I have six-step easy to follow process and work with illustrated prompt cards to help people make decisions. The inspirational images help engage your inner child with the process. I’ll set out some of the key principles of my six-step method here. For more details, check out my Home Declutter Kit at and download a sample chapter here.

Overcoming eight obstacles to a clutter-free creative space

2. Lack of motivation
Let’s face it, for most people the idea of sorting out your clutter is not something that fills them with excitement. The process is hard work, and although it can be fun it’s not easy to get motivated when you are looking at piles of stuff. The key is to motivate yourself with clear objectives and goals. Imagine the positive outcomes you want and write them down. Stick this up somewhere clearly visible when you’re decluttering. When you your motivation or energy levels drop, read it again and remind yourself why you’re doing this. Most people find it helps to pledge their goals in our Home Declutter Kit Community group on Facebook and check in there to be accountable.

3. Emotional Challenges
The best way to declutter is to work quickly – making lots of gut decisions: “Do I keep, bin, donate or recycle this?” If you have emotional connections or reactions to certain things, you may struggle to make these decisions. Try not to get caught up in this thinking. Simply put the item in a ‘Don’t know’ pile and move on to the next thing. At the end of the session, come back to the ‘don’t knows’. Hopefully the pile won’t be too big! If it is, I suggest sleeping on it or chatting it over with someone. This is where a friend can come in handy, ideally someone who’s a good listener and happy to talk through any difficulties you’re facing.

A few things may have such a strong emotional charge that you won’t feel ready to look at them: these are your ‘gremlins’. Put these in a box, seal it up and give yourself a time limit. How long do you feel needs to pass before you’ll be ready to face it? Aim for no longer than a year and put a date on the box. Then put it somewhere you can’t easily get to and note the date in your diary when you commit to dealing with it by.

Overcoming eight obstacles to a clutter-free creative space

4. Procrastination and distraction
People often start with the best of intentions then get distracted. This is particularly true when doing something you don’t like, or find challenging and emotionally overwhelming. And let’s not forget the allure of social media, texting or even things like doing the washing up that can become really complelling when faced with a declutter project! Try to be mindful or your decluttering time will be quickly eaten away.

Ask someone to help shift and carry in things for you to decide about. They can also keep you on task and prevent you getting distracted. You can then stay seated and focus on making decisions. Don’t get caught up in putting things away until the end. This is my best tip for you! Practice delaying gratification and reward yourself.

‘Read it’. In the midst of a decluttering session, it’s amazing how a magazine you’ve found can suddenly become really interesting. Maybe you’ve unearthed something that is genuinely of interest, or perhaps you’re looking for a way to avoid carrying on with your declutter. Either way, now is not the time to start reading it. Instead, have a ‘read it later’ pile. Put those articles, recipes and old love letters there and carry on sorting the clutter! At the end of the day, you can enjoy reading them to your heart’s content.

‘Action it’. If you come across something that you need to action, watch out for the urge to get drawn into doing it there and then. Put it into an ‘Action it’ pile. At the end of your session, revisit this and make a list of what you commit to doing. Gather the items into a box so you can get to them easily, or put them in an in-tray. Label it ‘Action’ and create a to-do list, committing to a time and date when you will action it by. No more procrastination!

Overcoming eight obstacles to a clutter-free creative space

I hope you find these tips helpful. I’d love to hear what obstacles you find when trying to get organised. If you need a little more support, visit my website and book in for an online mentoring session to get you going.

Check back next week for part two!

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Pun-tastic Valentine’s Cards DIY

We are getting into the Valentine’s crafting spirit hard in our shop, and Laura Howard is helping spread the love with some fab tutorials. Read on to find out how to make these truly wonderful pun-tastic Valentines for someone you love! Thanks, Laura!

Pun-Tastic Valentines DIY

Today I’m sharing templates for making cute and colourful Valentine’s Day cards inspired by silly puns. BEE mine, I’m PINE-ing for you, You make me HOPPY – whichever card (or cards) you choose, I hope you’ll have fun making these!

Pun-Tastic Valentines Cards

All these cards were made using the fab Super Colour 60 paper pad, which includes loads of great shades for all your paper crafting projects. Each pad includes a mix of light and heavy weight paper/card – I used the thick sheets for the cards themselves then cut out the shapes making up each design from the lighter weight paper. The lighter weight paper is also great for making coordinating envelopes.

You could also decorate a pack of blank cards and matching envelopes, or cut all the shapes from white paper and use colouring pencils, pens or even paints to add colour.

Tools and Materials:
The printable PDF template sheets.
Coloured paper and card – I used the Super Colour 60 paper pad.
A sharp pencil and an eraser
A fine black pen
A ruler
Felt tip pens or markers
A glue stick
Optional: scrap paper to protect your workspace.

To make each card:
1. Cut your chosen A4 card sheet in half then fold it in half to make a blank card to decorate. An easy way to do this is to fold a plain piece of A4 paper in half and use that as a guide to help you quickly draw a pencil line down the centre of the card. Carefully cut along the line then fold the card in half.

2. Use the templates provided and the instructions below to cut out all the pieces of coloured paper required to make up your chosen design. To cut out each shape, turn the template over and place it on the paper you’ve chosen. Use a sharp pencil to carefully trace around the paper template then cut out the shape and turn it over, leaving you with a finished shape with no visible pencil lines.

3. Arrange the pieces on the card and glue them in position using a glue stick. When gluing paper pieces, I like to turn the shapes over and place them face down on a piece of scrap paper – this way you can apply the glue right up to the edges of the shapes without worrying about getting glue on the table.

4. Use a fine black pen (or felt tips, as required) to add any necessary details to the design.

5. Finish the card by adding the pun-tastic message. For extra neatness, write the message in pencil first to plan the position and spacing of your words then write over the top in pen and erase the pencil once the ink has completely dried.

Pun-tastic Valentine's Cards A

You’re the apple of my eye.
Cut one red apple, one brown apple stalk, and one green apple leaf. Glue the apple then the stalk and leaf then use a fine black pen to draw a line down the centre of the leaf.

I’m pine-ing for you.
Cut one dark green pine tree and one brown tree trunk. Glue the pieces to the card.

You’re just my cup of tea.
Cut one pink or red heart and one cup in a contrasting colour (I chose bright blue). To cut out the hole inside the handle of the cup, cut through the shape at the top or bottom where the handle joins the bowl of the cup. Glue the cup then add the heart. If you want you can also use a fine black pen to draw wavy steam lines rising from the cup, or to add extra decorative details to the cup.

You’re purrrrrfect.
Cut one cat in a colour of your choice (I chose orange), two bright pink cat eyes, two pale pink cat ears (one left and one right) and one pale pink cat nose. I gave my cat heart eyes to be like the cat emoji, but if you prefer you can cut normal eyes for your cat. Glue the cat face to the card then add the small pieces. Use a fine black pen to give the cat whiskers and a smile (and, if needed, pupils for the eyes).

Bee mine.
Cut one yellow bee, one white bee wings, one flower (I chose lilac for this), one contrasting flower centre (I chose a bright orange), one pink flower heart, and two green leaves (one left and one right). Add a small bit of glue to the bottom of the wings, and stick them to the back of the bee, so the curved wings stick out as shown. Glue the flower then add the bee, flower centre, heart and leaves. If you find cutting out the small heart piece tricky, you can draw a heart with a pink pen instead! Use a green felt tip pen to draw the flower stalk, and a fine black pen to add stripes, a stinger and a smiley face to the bee.

You make me hoppy.
Cut one grey bunny, two pale pink bunny ears (one left and one right), two white bunny eyes, and one pink bunny nose. Glue the bunny face then add the small shapes. Use a fine black pen to give the bunny a smile, small whiskers, and big teeth, and to add pupils to the eyes.

Pun-tastic Valentine's Cards C

I’d be lost without you.
Cut one compass outer circle from a dark colour (I chose dark brown), one compass inner circle from a pale colour (I chose pale blue), and one compass points piece from a bold colour (I chose blue). Glue the outer circle to the card then add the inner circle so it’s centred on the larger shape. Then add the compass points in the middle and use a pen to draw four lines and the North, East, South, West markers.

I love you sew much.
Cut one bright thread piece (I chose bright pink), two bright buttons (I chose turquoise and lilac) and the top and bottom of the spool in white, cream or pale brown. Glue the thread and buttons, position the top and bottom spool pieces so they slightly overlap the thread, and then glue the spool pieces in place. Use a fine black pen to add detail to the top of the spool and the buttons, and to draw a sewing needle. Then use a felt tip pen matching your chosen thread colour to draw a curving line of thread running from the thread shape and through the eye of the needle.

I’m sweet on you.
Cut three sweets in assorted bright colours (I chose purple, orange and pink). Glue them to the card and use a fine black pen to draw a wrapper around each sweet.

Pun-tastic Valentine's cards D

I think you’re egg-cellent
Cut one white egg white, and one yellow egg yolk. Glue the egg white, add the egg yolk and use a fine black pen to give the yolk a smiley face.

I only have eyes for you
Cut one alien in a bright colour (I chose lime green) and lots of white eyes. Glue the alien to the card, then arrange the eyes and stick them in place. Use a fine black pen to give the alien a smile and to add a pupil to each eye.

You’re a-maze-ing.
Cut one maze from your chosen colour (I used pink). Glue it to the card then use a ruler to mark out the maze lines, using the template or the photo as a guide. You can draw the lines directly with a fine black pen, or draw them in pencil first then draw over them with pen when you’re happy with the design. Don’t forget to draw the lines around the outside of the maze, leaving a gap or to for the maze entrance(s)! Then cut a bright pink heart and stick it in the middle of the maze, or use a pink felt tip pen to draw a heart instead.

If you follow this tutorial to make any Valentines, please share them on Instagram and tag #thevillagehaberdashery so we can see your awesome work!

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How to knit a gauge swatch (and why you should!)

We’re excited to have Allison and Rachel from Yarn in the City writing some yarn-focused blog posts for us to help inspire you with your knitting and crochet projects. This edition is all about swatching, what is is and why it is a good thing to do. Take it away ladies…

how to knit a gauge swatch

Do I really have to swatch?

Who among us hasn’t asked this question at one time or another? You’re in the grips of the excitement of starting a new project, and you just want to get going! But then come those dreaded phrases – “adjust needle size as needed to get gauge”, “please swatch to ensure adequate yarn,” “swatch to avoid disappointment.” Argh!

Even though we are firmly in the camp of Swatching Is Good, we still get frustrated by having to pause in my casting on frenzy to knit a square, block it, wait for it to dry, measure it, and repeat ad infinitum until I get the correct gauge. But it is true that swatching is important, and there is a right way to swatch. There are also a number of factors that play a big role in whether or not your swatch tells the truth.

Why Swatching is a Good Thing by Allison and Rachel from Yarn in the City!

Why swatching is important:

You certainly don’t have to swatch – there are no swatching police! But if you want your project to end up the correct size and match the schematic measurements, swatching is a critical part of the process. Don’t do what Rachel did and spend several months in uni knitting an entire cabled sweater without swatching only to discover that the finished object fit her with 40 cm of ease! Particularly if you are starting a project for which fit is essential (jumpers or socks), swatching can save you hours of wasted time, additional expense and considerable heartbreak!

Why Swatching is a Good Thing by Allison and Rachel from Yarn in the City!

How to swatch correctly:

There’s no gold standard for how to swatch, but there are some general guidelines. Be sure you make your swatch big enough! The minimum size for a swatch is about 10 x 10 cm, but I’d definitely recommend making one bigger then that if you can stand it.
Work a garter stitch border around your swatch so it will lie flat when it’s finished. For all the swatches pictured below I cast on 26 sts and worked the first and last three stitches of each row in garter stitch, with 6 rows of garter stitch to start and finish.

If your project is knit in the round, you should swatch in the round. You don’t actually have to work a tube – use circular or double pointed needles, cast on and work one row. Slide the work to the other end of the needle and work the next row, leaving a long float across the back of the swatch so there’s plenty of room for it to lay flat when you’re done. Keep going until the swatch is the size you want, bind off, and block. You can cut the floats if you like, but just be sure to fasten them off so that the stitches are even along the edges.

Also make sure to treat your swatch as you are going to treat your finished project. Block the swatch in the same way as the final project, and let it dry before measuring the gauge.

To measure the gauge lay the swatch flat without stretching or pulling. Take a ruler or a measuring tape and lay it across the portion of your swatch between the garter edges. Measure this section and then divide it by the number of sts in the swatch (not counting the edges). Do the same for the row measurement. Then you can extrapolate to sts/rows per inch/cm.
Why Swatching is a Good Thing by Allison and Rachel from Yarn in the City!

A word about interpreting measurements: swatches with looser gauge will have fewer stitches or rows per unit measure. Swatches with tighter gauges will have more stitches or rows per unit measure.

OK, let’s take a look at some factors that will affect your gauge and how those factors can be used to your advantage.

Stitch pattern:

This may seem completely obvious, but the stitch pattern that you use for your swatch will affect your gauge dramatically. Case in point: the three swatches below were all knit on the same needles with the same number of stitches cast on and the same number of rows. They were all blocked the same way.

Why Swatching is a Good Thing by Allison and Rachel from Yarn in the City!

You can see that the cables pull the fabric in dramatically, while lace patterns open the fabric up and give fewer stitches per cm.


The type of needles you use couldimpact your gauge. The four swatches below were all knit with 5.0 mm needles of different materials. One swatch was knit on metal needles, one was knit on plastic needles, and two were knitwith wooden needles – one set smooth and polished, the other set rough. All swatches were worked over the same number of stitches for the same number of rows, and were blocked the same way.

Why Swatching is a Good Thing by Allison and Rachel from Yarn in the City!

Here’s how the gauge came out: Metal needles: 16 sts/22 rows per 10 cm; plastic needles 22 sts/23 rows per 10 cm, smooth wooden needles: 18 sts/25 rows per 10 cm; rough wooden needles: 16 sts/ 24 rows per 10 cm.
The plastic needles gave the tightest stitch gauge, while the metal and rough wooden needles gave the loosest stitch gauge. Metal and plastic needles gave similar row gauges, while wooden needles had looser row gauges. Generally speaking, smoother needles will give tighter gauges, while rougher needles will hold on to the yarn and give a looser fabric at the same needle size.
The take home message from this experiment is that if you are swatching and having trouble getting correct gauge, but changing needle size is too much of a difference, try a different type of needle.

Yarn choice:

The yarn you choose for your project plays an integral role in how successful you’ll be. The first thing to consider is the yarn weight – all knitting patterns should indicate the weight of the yarn used. Sometimes that will be explicit and sometimes you need to do a bit of digging, particularly if you are going substitut a different yarn. If the weight isn’t given in the pattern, look up the yarn called for on Ravelry, which will tell you the yarn weight.

Another clue is the gauge: if there are more stitches listed in the gauge over 4 inches/10 cm, the yarn is finer. For example, a project worked at a gauge of 32 sts over 4 inches/10 cm (a 4-ply gauge) uses a finer yarn than a project worked at 12 sts over 4 inches/10 cm (super chunky gauge).

On other thing to keep in mind: the terms used to indicate yarn weights vary regionally, and the name for a particular weight of yarn in one part of the world may refer to a completely different weight of yarn somewhere else! To help you navigate this tricky area, we’ve included a table comparing US, UK and Australian names for different weights of yarn, along with the approximate stitch gauges for each weight.

US UK Australia Gauge over 4 inches/10 cm
Laceweight 1 ply
2 ply 2 ply 32-40 sts on 1.5 – 2.25 mm needles
Fingering 4 ply 3 ply 27 -32 sts on 2.25 – 3.25 mm needles
Sport – 5 ply 24-27 sts on 3.25 – 3.75 mm needles
DK/Light worsted DK 8 ply 21-24 sts on 3.75 – 4mm needles
Worsted Aran 10 ply 16-20 sts on 4.5-5.5 mm
Bulky Chunky 12 ply 12-16 sts on 5.5 -8 mm needles
Super Bulky Super Chunky 14 ply Anything less than 12 sts per 4 inches/10 cm

Finally, your fibre choice can affect your project, particularly if you are substituting yarns. A general rule of thumb is to try and match the fibre content (I.e. wool for wool, cotton for cotton) and the meterage.

Be aware that some fibres change more after blocking than others, particularly superwash wools, which can grow dramatically after they get wet, leading to much looser gauges than you want or need! The swatches below were all knit out of the same superwash wool, but were blocked differently: the left swatch wasn’t left unblocked, the middle swatch was wet blocked and air dried and the right swatch was wet blocked and tumble dried. Air drying resulted in a larger swatch than the unblocked version, while tumble drying produced a smaller swatch.

Why Swatching is a Good Thing by Allison and Rachel from Yarn in the City!

Hopefully these tips are enough to get you started on your swatching adventures. Happy knitting!

Thanks Ladies!

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