Harvey is eating solids now. And that means I am doing even more laundry than before. But bibs help. So the more I can have around the better! This tutorial from Julie of forestpoppy is full of tips for whipping up some quick, fun and adorable baby bibs.
Just one note from me – this pattern seems best suited to babies under six months. Harvey can wear it at nearly seven months but it won’t fit around his neck for much longer. Keep in mind you might want to adjust the neckline if you plan to sew this pattern for older babies.
UPDATE: Julie has assured me that her two-year-old daughter can wear this bib with no problems. So perhaps Harvey is fat-necked? Hmm. Feel free to ignore the above advice!
And now on to Julie for her fabulous tute! Thanks Julie!
Thanks Annie for letting me play with your beautiful fabric again!
I love making bibs – they are a great excuse to have fun with pretty fabrics and they are quick and easy to make. For this project I’ve kept them as simple as possible to show off the gorgeous Let’s Pretend Wooden Blocks prints by Sarah Jane…..but the opportunities for variation are endless – why not try applique, patchwork or embroidery?
To make one bib you’ll need the following:
a) Flannel for the back – at least 10″ wide by 13″ high – I used the new Rae Hoekstra Fanfare Solid White
c) Coordinating thread
d) 5cm long by 20mm wide strip of velcro – I used sew-on velcro
For those who are quite new to sewing I have included a few tips in italics.
3. Cut out the bib shape about 1/4″ to 1/2″ outside the line you have just drawn – not on the line.
4. Lay your fabric right sides together with the flannel and pin.
5. Sew along the line you drew onto the patterned fabric – starting at one side where the edge is straight and following the line right round leaving a 3″ opening unstitched for turning.
Tip 1: It helps, when you are turning the fabric right sides out later, to start and finish sewing at the outside edge of the patterned fabric and perpendicular to the bib line – see second photo below.
Tip 2: Sewing curves is easiest if taken slowly, it may help to reduce your stitch length too. Steer the fabric and don’t pull it and if you get ‘stuck’ at any point, and find you can’t manoeuvre the fabric as needed, just stop with the needle down and turn the fabric to the right position.
6. Now that the top and bottom fabrics are held securely together cut out the flannel fabric, following the edge of the patterned fabric.
7. Cut snips on the inside of the neck curve and small v-shaped notches around the strap ends and bottom curve – take care to ensure you don’t snip into your stitch line. See the two photos below. Tip 3: Cutting snips into the concave neck curve helps the fabric spread when it is turned right sides out – the length of the seam is longer than the length of the fabric curve so without the snips the fabric will be strained.
Tip 4: Cutting away small v-shaped notches around convex curves, like the neck ends, helps prevent the fabric bunching up when it is turned right sides out – in this instance the fabric curve is longer than the length of the seam and without the notches there would be too much fabric.
8. Turn bib right sides out through the opening and run your fingers right around the inside, all along the seam line. This will help ensure it is fully turned out. Check that the loose fabric at the opening is neatly tucked inside.
9. Press well with a steam iron.
10. Edgestitch (sew approx 1/8″ away from the edge of the fabric, all the way round the perimeter) the entire bib catching the opening as you go. Take the curves slowly and carefully follow the shape of the bib.
11. Round off the corners of the velcro and separate it. Position the hook (rough) side on the front of the bib on the right hand arm near the end (I find it easier not to pin in place) and edgestitch in place. Repeat for the loop (soft) side of the velcro, sewing it onto the other arm on the back (flannel side) of the bib.
And now you just need to find a cute small person to model the bib!